Osso Buco with a Southern Twist: Family, Flavor, and Fall
Ossobuco served on polenta with a lemon and micro herb gremolata
There’s something magical about Osso Buco—a dish that captures the heart of Italian cooking and brings families together. The name means “bone with a hole,” a nod to those cross-cut shanks and the marrow inside—one of the best parts, especially if you ask my son, John.
The Story and the Tradition
Osso Buco hails from Milan, but like all great Italian dishes, it’s traveled and evolved. In the north, it’s classically “bianco”—white wine, broth, aromatics, no tomatoes. But in the south, where my family’s from, tomatoes are a way of life. Our version features white wine and a generous helping of tomatoes, giving the sauce a brightness and depth that I love.
The Foundation: Soffritto & Pistata
Every great Osso Buco starts with the soffritto: pancetta, celery, carrot, onion, and garlic. This is where the magic begins—slowly sautéed until golden, building layers of flavor. Pancetta adds a savory richness, while the vegetables bring sweetness and body. Some recipes finish with a pistata—a finely chopped mix of herbs, garlic, and sometimes lemon zest, or Milan’s famous gremolata. That fresh, zippy sprinkle at the end wakes up the whole dish.
Braising: From Stove to Oven (or Fire)
I start my Osso Buco on the stove, searing the shanks for a golden crust, then building the sauce with wine and tomatoes. Once everything’s bubbling, it all goes in the oven for a long, slow braise—until the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender and the marrow is ready to be savored. If I’m feeling nostalgic, I dream of braising it over a live fire, using low embers above and below the Dutch oven. That’s old-school, and the flavor is unbeatable.
Removed from the oven and allowed to rest for at least an hour.
Osso Buco
Ingredients
- Soffrito-Pistata
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4 oz Panchetta, Diced
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0.5 ea Sweet Onion, Medium
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1 ea Carrot
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1 ea Celery Stalk
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3 ea Garlic Cloves
- Prepare the Veal
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3 ea Veal Shank, 1.5" Thick
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TT Salt
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TT Pepper, Black
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3 oz Flour, All Purpose
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3 oz Olive oil
- Brasing Liquid
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10 ea Tomatoes, Cherry
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8 oz White Wine
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2 ea Bay Leaves
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1 ea Rosemary
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1 ea Thyme
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2 Tbls Demi Glace
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16 oz Chicken Stock
Instructions
- Prepare the Soffrito-Pistata
- Peel the carrots, then dice the carrots, onion, and celery. Reserve half the onion for making the braising liquid.
- Put the carrots, panchetta, peeled garlic cloves, celery, and half the onion in a food processor with the chopping blade and blend to a paste. Scrape down the bowl after a few pulses with the food processor to get a smooth paste.
- Prepare the Veal
- Cut the silverskin/connective tissue in 3 spots around the veal shanks so they will not curl and they will lie flat.
- Season both sides well with salt and pepper. Lightly dust with flour on both sides after seasoning.
- Add the olive oil to a hot pan, and brown the veal shanks well on both sides.
- Remove the shanks from the pan and lower to medium flame.
- Cook the Sofritto-Pistata
- Put all the Sofritto paste (pistata) and the other half of the diced onion into the pan that you just finished browning the veal shanks, and cook for about 5 minutes until the oinion pieces look well cooked.
- Add your demi glace and melt into the mixture.
- Deglaze with white wine.
- Chop the tomatoes in half and add them to the mix and cook for about 3 min.
- Add half the chicken stock and mix in well.
- Add back your veal shanks and arrange them so they lie flat.
- Add the remaining chicken stock enough to just cover your shanks.
- Put the lid on the pot and put it into a preheated oven at 350°F for 90 min.
- Remove from the oven and let rest covered for 1 hour.
Notes
• Feel free to use red wine instead of white wine.
• You can omit the tomatoes to make a more true Milanese style.
• Sometimes, halfway through the cooking process, I flip my veal shanks. Usually, I do this when the pan is not tall enough to hold enough stock to cover the shanks.
• If your pot is too big, just add more stock. The recipe has plenty of flavor.
• Serve on polenta or mashed potatoes with sauteed greens and charred roasted carrots.
Family Moments: Passing Down the Marrow
This time, making Osso Buco was extra special—John tried bone marrow for the first time. I wasn’t sure he’d go for it, but he loved it. Like any good parents, we handed over our shares so he could enjoy it. Not the first time, either—ask me about the five pounds of vongole we made once, and how John ate nearly all of them (I got two). Good thing there’s always mortadella in the fridge for a backup sandwich, which honestly is just fine by me.
What to Serve With It
Osso Buco is all about comfort, so I love serving it over creamy, soft polenta or buttery mashed potatoes and sauteed greens. The sauce soaks in, the marrow melts, and every bite is pure fall coziness. The gentle bitterness of dandelion greens—or even fresh spinach—brings a beautiful balance to this dish, cutting through the richness and adding a fresh, vibrant note to every bite.
Why I Love It
Fall is my favorite season for braised meats—there’s something about the chill in the air and the scent of slow-cooked dinners that makes home feel extra special. Osso Buco isn’t just a recipe—it’s a ritual, a celebration of family, tradition, and sharing good food (even if you end up with just a mortadella sandwich).